Jobsite Requirements
Carefully examine the flooring prior to installation for grade, color, finish and quality. Ensure adequate lighting for proper inspection. If flooring is not acceptable, contact EcoTimber immediately and arrange for replacement. EcoTimber cannot accept responsibility for installation of flooring with visible defects.
Prior to installation of any flooring, the installer must ensure that the jobsite and subfloor meet the requirements of these instructions. EcoTimber is not responsible for flooring failure resulting from unsatisfactory jobsite and/or subfloor conditions.
Hardwood flooring should be one of the last items installed for any new construction or remodel project.
All work involving water or moisture should be completed before flooring installation.
Room temperature and humidity of installation area should be consistent with normal, year-round living conditions for at least a week before installation of wood flooring. Room temperature of 60-70°F and humidity range of 40-60% is recommended.
Store EcoTimber wood flooring at installation area for 24-72 hours before installation to allow flooring to adjust to room temperature and humidity. Do not store directly on concrete or near outside walls. This flooring may not be acceptable for full bathroom installations because of moisture associated with such locations.

Installation tools

For nail-down installation, you’ll also need:
• Powernail® Model 50c 1/2” nailer
• Powercleats® 1-1/4” cleats

For floating installation, you’ll also need:
• 6-mil polyfilm • Foam underlayment
• PVAC glue • Poly tape or duct tape

For glue-down installation, you’ll also need:
• Flooring adhesive: Bostik® Best, Franklin® 811, or Franklin 911
• Adhesive trowel as recommended by adhesive manufacturer
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Acceptable Subfloor types:
• Plywood (at least 1/2” thick) • Underlayment-grade particleboard (floating/glue-down only)
• OSB (at least 3/4” thick) • Concrete slab (floating/glue-down only)
• Existing wood floor • Ceramic tile (floating/glue-down only)
• Resilient tile & sheet vinyl (floating/glue-down only)

Subfloor must be:
• Structurally sound
• Clean: Thoroughly swept and free of all debris (including wax, grease, paint, sealers, old adhesives)
• Level: Flat to 3/16” per 10-foot radius
• Dry and will remain dry: Subfloor must remain dry year-round. Moisture content of subfloor must not exceed 13% for most surfaces, must not exceed 2.5% for concrete. Can be tested with commercial moisture meter.

Wood Subfloors must be dry and well secured. Nail or screw every 6” along joists to avoid squeaking. If not level, sand down high spots and fill low spots with an underlayment patch.

Concrete must be fully cured, at least 60 days old, and should have minimum 6-mil polyfilm between concrete and ground. Do not install on concrete unless you are sure it stays dry year-round. All concrete should be tested for moisture.

Ceramic tile, resilient tie and sheet vinyl must be well-bonded to subfloor, in good condition, clean and level. Do not sand existing vinyl floors, as they may contain asbestos.

Radiant heat: Use only floating installation over radiant heat. Subfloor should never exceed 85°F. Check with manufacturer’s suggested guidelines for correct water temperature inside heating pipes. Switch off heating unit one or two days before flooring installation. Room temperature should not vary more than 15°F year-round. Follow floating installation instructions for below grade.

Preparing for Installation
Since wood expands with any increase in moisture content, always leave at least a 1/4” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and cabinets). This will be covered up once you reapply base moldings around the room. Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space.
When laying flooring, stagger end joints from row to row by at least 18”. When cutting the last plank in a row to fit, you can use the cut-off end to begin the next row. If cut-off end is 8” or less, cut a new plank at a random length and use it to start the next row. You will always begin each row from the same side of the room.
To pull planks together always use a tapping block and hammer. Tapping block should be used against the tongue only (never against the groove). When near a wall, you can use a crow or pull bar to close end joints. Take care not to damage edge of flooring.

Getting Started
Begin installation next to an outside wall. This is usually the straightest and best reference for establishing a straight working line. Establish this line by measuring an equal distance from the wall at both ends and snapping a chalkline. The distance you measure from the wall should be the width of a plank plus about 1/4” for expansion space. You may want to dry-lay a few rows (no glue or nails) before starting installation to confirm your layout decision and working line. If outside all is out of square, adjust working line to make it straight for the rest of your installation. You’ll need to scribe cut the first row of planks to match the wall to make a straight working line.
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Nail-Down Installation
First and second rows: Lay flooring perpendicular to floor joists, unless subfloor is existing hardwood and/or has been strengthened to prevent sagging. Lay first plank inside chalkine with grooved edge toward wall. Pre-drill 1/2” from grooved edge about 8” apart and secure planks with finish nails. Use nail punch to sink nails below surface and fill with wood filler. Repeat on tongue edge of plank. Install entire first and second row in the same manner. Always leave at least a 1/4” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space.

Subsequent rows: Lay by using floor nailer to blind-nail top inside edge of tongue at a 45° angle. Nail each board every 8” and within 2” of each end. Remember to stagger end joints from row to row and use a tapping block to fit boards together. It may be necessary to face-nail in doorways or tight areas where the nailer can’t fit. The last two rows will need to be face-nailed in the same manner as the first two rows.

Glue-Down Installation
• Use only the above-mentioned approved adhesives. Read adhesive instructions carefully for proper trowel size and adhesive set time. Never use the “wet lay” or “loose lay” method of installing. This is when you install the flooring immediately after spreading adhesive. This method will trap moisture under the floor and cause the flooring to warp. Read adhesive instructions for proper set time before beginning installation of flooring (usually at least 30 minutes).
• Starting at outside wall, spread as much adhesive as can be covered by flooring in one hour (or as recommended by your adhesive instructions). Spread with trowel at a 45° angle.
• Once adhesive has set, lay the first row of flooring with groove facing the wall, and continue laying flooring until adhesive is covered. Always check your working lines to be sure the floor is still aligned.
Use tapping block to fit planks together, but be careful not to let installed floor move on the wet adhesive while you are working.
• When first section is finished, continue to spread adhesive and lay flooring section by section until installation is complete. Use a damp cloth to immediately remove any adhesive that gets on flooring surface. Remember to stagger end joints from row to row.
• Always leave at least a 1/4” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects (such as pipes and cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space.
• Walk each section of flooring foot-by-foot within the adhesive working time to ensure a solid bond with the adhesive. Flooring planks on perimeter of room may require weight on them until adhesive cures enough to hold them down.

Floating Installation

Laying underlayment
• Polyfilm: If below grade, first lay a 6-mil polyfilm with seams overlapped 8”. Fasten seams every
18-24” with duct tape or poly tape. Run the outside edges of film up perimeter of wall 4” (trim after flooring installation is complete.) If installation is on or above grade, polyfilm is recommended but not necessary.
• Foam: Lay foam underlayment by butting edges, not overlapping. Tape full length of seam.
EcoTimber Prefinished Engineered 2-Strip Installation Instructions Page 4 of 4

Installing the floor: Start first row with groove toward wall. Glue end-joints of first row by applying adhesive to bottom of groove. Always leave at least a 1/4” expansion space between flooring and all walls and vertical objects such as pipes and cabinets). Use wood or plastic spacers during installation to maintain this expansion space.
Lay subsequent rows of flooring by applying glue to side and end joints and fitting planks together with a tapping block. Remember to stagger end joints from row to row.

Finishing the Job
• Remove expansion spacers and reinstall base and/or quarter round moldings to cover the expansion space.
• Install any transition pieces that may be needed (reducer, T-mouldings).
• Do not allow foot traffic or heavy furniture on floor for 24 hours (if glue-down or floating).
• Dust mop or vacuum your floor to remove any dirt or debris.

Cleaning and Maintenance
The maintenance program for EcoTimber® flooring is designed to be end-user friendly as well as more cost-effective than most other flooring maintenance programs. The latest advances in urethane technology are used in our manufacturing process to help aid product performance and maintenance. The following simple steps should be used at all sites to ensure the best performance and appearance. The use of other products like hot wax, water, and/or oil soaps only inhibit product performance and should be avoided at all times.

Immediately after installation: A “no-shoes” policy in the home will greatly reduce the time and energy required for maintenance.
Keep any extra boards in their original carton in case any installed boards become heavily damaged.

Every week: The flooring should be swept twice a week with the use of a dry dust mop to remove grit and debris from the surface of the flooring.

Every two to six weeks: We recommend the Bona-X Swedish Formula Cleaning System.
This system does not require an outside maintenance company. It includes a washable cloth broom (unlike many other cleaning products which have disposable “wipes”). Bona-X will remove minor scuffs and foot traffic film with an odorless V.O.C.-compliant product. The use of this product will not create future maintenance issues if and when re-coating the floor becomes necessary.
If there are areas that will not clean up with the Bona-X System, the use of Goof-Off will.
Goof-Off is a water-based cleaner that will remove paint, ink, adhesive residue, and chewing gum without harming the factory finish. This product is available over the counter at most building material or paint stores.

Refinishing: Our UV polyurethane has been tested with many of the major brands of floor finish. Some of these are BonaKemi Mega, Glitsa's Bacca Sealer, and Gold Seal Semi-Gloss.
Always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for application, coverage and dry time.